Author: Hoihnu Hauzel (coutesy: http://www.downtoearth.org.in/content/flower-delicacies-northeast)

Posted on: 18 May, 2012

Batter fried or simply fried, edible flowers make great side dishes

I have vivid memories of my late grandmother plucking papaya flowers off the trees in her sprawling garden. She would often gather a handful from each tree; once her little bowl was full, she would rush into the kitchen and fry them in little oil, adding a pinch of salt for taste.

After she passed away, I saw my mother do the same for years. On some occasions, these fried papaya flowers were a part of our meal. It is bitter but has a flavour which only those who love bitter gourd can appreciate. Papaya flowers are often consumed for treating diabetes.

People in the Northeast are in the habit of eating all sorts of edible flowers, whether from trees, plants, herbs or shrubs. Come to think of it, there are so many edible flowers that grow so abundantly in homes and forests; the local markets stock a variety of them. Flowers of pumpkins, ginger, onion, mustard and banana are common; there are many more and I don't even know what they are called in English.

During a culinary class in Bangkok a year or two ago, I remember our instructor, Tam Piyawadi Jantrupon who runs a cooking class by the the Choa Phraya River in Bangkok, plucked fresh flowers from her garden and fed us some exotic fare. She served many edible flowers that were delicately batter fried with accompanying sauces. Some of these flowers are commonly found in the Northeast, which reaffirms Thailand’s cultural affinity with the Northeast. The only difference, perhaps, is Pam’s delicate and refined style of preparation.

Edible flowers, the ones I can lay my hands on, are an important part of my daily cooking. I use ginger flowers for garnishing lentils and non-vegetarian dishes. I love onion flowers for their delicate flavour; it's great for garnishing.

Here are the names of a few edible flowers that are a eaten as delicacies in the region:

Leibak kundo: It is a leafy vegetable eaten along with the stem and flowers in Manipur. Portulaca oleracea, as botanists would call it, is great for preparing saag, a dry-fry dish which makes a good side-dish. In Greece, I have seen the stems mixed into Greek salad in a couple of restaurants.

Nongmankha: It is a sprawling shrub (Phlogocanthus thyrsiforus) with tubular flowers, commonly found in Manipur. The flowers come in two shades—white and yellow. The shrub grows wild in my neighbour’s garden in Imphal and I must confess that I have plucked these flowers from their garden without taking permission a couple of times to use in my kitchen. In Manipur, people use these flowers for preparing a dish called kangngou, a dry-fried dish quite like a bitter gourd preparation. Another popular dish is sumtak, a bitter tasting dish in which the flowers are fried in oil with small fish. In Assamese, the flower is called titaphul, ronga bahak or titabahak. The shrub usually flowers from December through February. Sometimes, it is also roasted by wrapping it in a banana leaf. People love it for the bitter taste. My friend Ananta and Leena Saikia in Jorhat, who have a chilly farm, tell me that this is used for various medicinal purposes. Sometimes, it is dried and stored for future use.

Chigonglei: These are rare flowers, usually associated with a particular occasion in Manipur. During Cheiroaba, the new year of the Meitei community, people use thse extensively. Aeschynomene aspera is its botanical name.

Hangam: It is nothing but mustard flowers (Brassica camperstris), dark yellowish in colour. Mainland India would leave the flowers untouched for the mustard seeds and oil, but in the Northeast, the flowers are a delicacy; they are used to make a vegetable soup. The flowers are cleaned and boiled without any herbs, not even salt, and the soup is consumed in a mug along with meals. It is slightly bitter. Called champhoot or antui, it aids in digestion.

Laphu tharo: It goes by the botanical name Musa paradisiaca and is nothing but banana flower. You find these in all local markets in the Northeast. I have relished a particular dish called ironba, a popular dish made of mashed potato, beans, chillies and dry fish. You can make ironba just with the flowers, chillies and dry fish. In Assam, it is called koldil and is a rather common vegetable. It is also eaten pickled.

Lomba or lengmaser: It resembles the flowers of basil and tulsi, only the fragrance tells them apart. The plant, Elsholtiza blanda, grows mostly in forests. Rarely have I seen it in people’s kitchen garden. The Nagas will have it in their kitchens all through the season. So will the Mizos and other communities in the region. It is redolent with a captivating aroma which can change the flavour of a dish. It is usually dried and preserved for months. It is great for garnishing both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes. I mostly use this for a typical Northeast dish made of arbi (colocasia).

Sajina: We have heard of drumsticks but not quite the flower of this tree called Sajina in Assamese. Moringa oleifera is a middle sized soft tree and the flowers are small, whitish and honey-scented. The tree usually flowers in January till March. While drumsticks are great in sambhar, the flower is fried in oil. Use of this flower, however, is not restricted to the Northeast. A relative told me how her mother used these flowers for preparing vegetarian dishes in Nagpur.

Ghora neem: Some tribes of western Assam prepare dishes from the flowers of this deciduous tree with pounded rice. Melia azadirachta bears  small, white flowers tinged with purplish blue. It usually flowers through March to May and is quite bitter in taste. “Leaves of the tree are used in treatment of skin diseases and to kill worms in both humans and domesticated animals,” is what Ananta Saikia, an agriculturist tells me.

Bhat meteka: It is the Assamese name for Monochoria hastate. People in lower Assam treat this as a delicacy and make sumptuous dish out of this with fish. You will find the Bodos and Koch-Rajbongshis among others relying on this flower whenever they want something quite different. It is a herb with creeping root stock and usually grows in swamps or shallow water bodies like ponds. Sometimes, it is also found in paddy fields.

Sewali phul: It is a white flower which is fragrant. People in Assam grow Nyctanthes arbor-tristis near their bedroom as it perfumes the air during the night. It flowers in September and October and is quite a popular cooking ingredient in Assamese homes. The flower is slightly bitter and can be used to make a dry subji. The leaves are used for making curry. It is said to destroy intestinal worms and is also said act as an aphrodisiac. The leaves are also used to treat skin diseases.

Tags: Aeschynomene aspera, Bhat meteka, Chigonglei, Edible flowers, Ghora neem, Hangam, Laphu tharo (banana flowers), Leibak kundo, Melia azadirachta, Metis, Monochoria hastate, Moringa oleifera, Musa paradisiaca, mustard flowers (Brassica camperstris), Nongmankha, Northeast food recipes, Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, Portulaca oleracea, Sajina (drumsticks), Sewali phul

Located among the lush greenery of Kaziranga National Park, Diphlu River Lodge is ideally situated to cater to wildlife enthusiasts. It is for those who love to wake up to the chirping of birds and nature. A sought-after lodge for its location, there are  four individual cottages and four semi-detached cottages that open up to wide balconies. The rustic appeal acentuated by thatched roof only adds to the charm. Emphasizing on comfort for guests, all cottages come with modern amenities and guests can expect tea/coffee machines, mini-bar and a small fridge in every cottage.

The beauty of nature comes into your doorstep as you get to watch otters and water buffaloes in their natural habitat from the comfort of your cottage. At Machan, (jungle platform) the lodge’s restaurant, swap interesting jungle stories with fellow guests over delectable Assamese fare and international treats prepared by the in-house chef who can pamper you all through your stay. After an early morning safari, watch for birds or scan the opposite bank for wild animals, or simply pour over the many books that are netly stocked in the spacious verandah. As for wildlife, the lodge offers two drives every day in to the Kaziranga, where sightings of elephant, water buffalo, the famous one-horned rhino, are a possibility, along with the elusive tiger. Elephant rides can be arranged here, and for those of you who prefer the water, the lodge also arranges leisurely cruises along the Brahmaputra, at an additional cost. By evening, enjoy the magic of cozy campfires with pre-arranged barbeques as you watch the sun go down.

Located outside Kaziranga National Park, 200 kilometres from Guwahati, the Wild Grass Lodge is a haven for those who want to experience the jungle. Built in rural style architecture, with the grounds housing over 40 species of trees, 200 species of shrubs, there is nature everyone around the visitor. In fact, so insistent are the visitors upon enjoying the outdoors, that some of the amenities one associates with hotels are not there. For instance, the owners make it a point to discourage room service and more importantly there are no televisions. The idea is that visitors spend their time outside and be at one with nature.

Coming to food, the tariff includes breakfast along with complimentary tea and snacks when you return from your safari. Lunch and dinner are offered with Indian and continental options, however, a must have is the local Assamese fare.  Word of caution: Do remember to order in advance, ideally a few hours before leaving for your safari, so that the staff, get time to prepare. The reason is because they get the produce absolutely fresh!   

Accommodation is basic but pleasant. The Wild Grass Jungle Lodge offers 18 double rooms in two jungle lodges and in addition, and there is a Wild Grass Tented Camp which offers three tents pegged under a high thatched roof amidst an ambience of ruins. All rooms and tented camp are attached with bathroom and showers, running with hot and cold water facilities. All rooms have been made in colonial style, which adds to the romance of the place.  A top tip: bear in mind that the resort also offers rooms, which have three to four beds in them – ideal for a large group. However, while staying there, make sure that the time is allocated responsibly as otherwise, the hot water will tend to run out.    

Coming to transport, the lodge provides local transport which visitors would be well advised to use. For instance, the lodge arranges for a half-day visit to the gibbon sanctuary at Hoollongappar.  A tip: Do take one of the lodge’s staff to be the guide on a wildlife trip, as they are local, passionate about wildlife, increasingly knowledgeable about the right places for animal spotting, and the local flora and fauna.  Do note that the jeeps here are on the smaller side, which may be a factor to consider is the group is large. The lodge also provides transfers to Guwahati airport. However, do remember to book an AC cab, as the road to the airport is very dusty.                       

How to get there

Travel by air or rail to Guwahati and then take a car. The lodge is 225km - approximately a five and half hour drive from Guwahati. Visitors can hire AC Tata Sumos or can rrage for the lodge to pick them up. This costs extra.    

What to do

Tour visit to tribal village.
Village visit; tea garden visit with prior permission.

Jeep Safari for see wild animals in Kaziranga National Park.

Trekking in the nearby forest.

Located on the edge of a tea estate, Mancotta Chang is a 157-year-old bungalow situated just outside the town of Dibrugarh. The bungalow, owned by Manoj and Vineeta Jalan through their company Purvi Discovery, was built by the British, offers visitors a taste of a bygone era of the British Raj. It has a rather nostalgic setting with all six rooms named after the famous tributaries of the Brahmaputra. The rooms are spacious and come with dressing area, a bathroom-toilet (western style), two large sunrooms, a sitting room, dining room and a balcony. A tip: ask for the master bedroom on the first floor, it is simply breathtaking. In the evenings, visitors can sip the famous Assamese tea as they watch the sun go down.As a retreat, Mancotta Chang is perfect for those looking to explore the heritage and culture of Assam. For instance, the bungalow is built in true Assamese style and raised on stilts. Why stilts? Because that it makes it easier to mount your elephant - the traditional and perhaps most efficient mode of transport here. What else? Visitors can go exploring the nearby tea gardens and villages, where they can interact with the locals, and experience an India of a bygone era.The place does offer some basic amenities like laundry, shoe shining, and a complimentary newspaper. The cuisine which varies from Indian to Continental to Oriental is simple but flavourful. Only don’t go looking for the traditional hotel frills here, as the place is retreat and should be treated as such. Enjoy Mancotta Chang for what it is and you will have a wonderful holiday.
 
Location: 4 kms away from Dibrugarh railway station; 20 kms from Dibrugarh airport.Accommodation: 4 AC rooms in the main bungalow; 2 Single Non AC rooms in the annexure buildingEnjoy: Elephant rides as the bungalow is on stiltsFacilities: Laundry, shoe shining, complimentary newspaper.Meals: Are offered onsite

Set in the heart of the business centre, this hotel offers modern amenities with traditional decor. Built in the traditional Assamese style with bamboo and cane furnishing, the hotel is one of the best places to soak in the culture and ambience of Assam. Indeed, guests here at the hotel are welcomed in true Assamese style with a traditional hat and shawl. A tip: the hotel offers excellent views of the river Brahmaputra, but that is provided to visitors who stay on the second floor and insist on a river facing room. Otherwise, they can find themselves staring at a temporary structure which is coming up. Another thing to note while checking in, is to ask if all credit cards are accepted, as the hotel does not accept American Express. 
The USP of the hotel is the location. It takes approximately half an hour to reach here from the airport and the hotel provides transfers which are efficient and cost effective. Do be sure to check that parking charges are included in the transfer before you book. Those on the lookout for alternatives will find plenty of local cabs, which the hotel can arrange. Skin friendly toiletries are available in all the rooms, and since it is located so close to the Brahmaputra river; guests will enjoy taking a morning stroll along the riverside early in the morning. For those who prefer to relax, there is a bar and a disco on the first floor, which becomes active only on Saturdays. For food, there is a restaurant which offers decent local fare. Do be sure to try the teas, as the hotel provides wonderful local variants, which are the highlight of this place. 
Location 
21 kms from Guwahati Airport, 1 km from Railway Station/city centre.
Facilities 
Credit cards (MasterCard, VISA, Diners) money changer, beauty parlour, room service, safe deposit, laundry, travel agency. There is an ATM in close proximity and the hotel also offers conferencing and banqueting facilities. 
Address
Hotel Brahmaputra AshokMG Road, Guwahati 781001Tel No 0361-2602281-84/87/88 E-mail This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Website www.hotelbrahmaputraashok.com

Located far away from the madding crowds, noise and pollution Ginger Guwahati is one of the best known budget hotels in Assam. The warm and magic of the hotel is thanks to its picturesque views from the room and its friendly staff, who make it a point to uphold the standards the Ginger group is well known for throughout India. From scrumptious buffet breakfasts, to a gymnasium, to Wi-fi passwords that provide internet access to the busy business traveller, this hotel has something to offer everyone, whether it be a business traveller or a family. For those of you who want to indulge in a little local sightseeing, the hotel provides a special pick-up and drop facility to Six Mile, a local market which houses some of the best eating areas in Guwahati. This is a must do for those who want to experience the local charm of the city. Clean, efficient and far from the hustle bustle of the main city, Ginger Guwahati provides the guest with modern amenities, while taking the stress away.How to get there

From the Railway station
Travel towards the six mile crossing. Turn left towards the VIP road. You will see the Tennis Association of Assam on your right. Ginger Guwahati is located behind it.

From the bus station (ISBT – Interstate Bus Terminus)
Take the ASTC bus to Paltan Bazaar. Take and auto or a city bus and travel towards the six mile crossing. Turn left towards the VIP road. You will see the Tennis Association Of Assam on your right. Ginger Guwahati is located behind it.
From the Airport
Travel towards the six mile crossing via the bypass. Turn left towards the VIP road. You will see the Tennis Association of Assam on your right. Ginger Guwahati is located behind it
Address
Ginger Guwahati,
IHM Campus,
VIP Road, Upper Hengrabari, Borbari
Guwahati - 781036
Assam
Phone: +91 0361-6113333
Fax: +91 361 233 6336
Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

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The warmth of Prabhakar instantly makes one feel at home. The owners Sheila and Mahesh Bora, who converted their ancestral family home into a homestay, have played hosts to many travellers from across the globe. What makes it so special at Prabhakar is the unwavering commitment of Sheila, a retired professor who dishes out delicious homely Assamese meals and Mahesh, a retired mining engineer who never tires of gardening. No wonder, the property is awashed in natural beauty. There are more than 250 varieties of orchids that Mahesh has lovingly nurtured. The compound is dotted with seasonal flowers. Whether you sit out in the balcony or in the garden, you will always have birds and birdsongs for company.

The four rooms in the property are well-furnished and tastefully decorated in bright colours. Perched on a hill above the busy town of Guwahati, Prabhakar is where you can look forward to wholesome meals and a good night's sleep.

Facilities

• Flat-screen TV with 24-hour cable beam
• International newspapers and varied magazines
• 24-hour laundry service
• Home-cooked meals
• Provision for babysitting
• Airport transfer
• Car Parking
• Local sightseeing

Embark on a voyage of discovery in the northeast and explore many lesser known destinations in the region, says Hoihnu Hauzel

It’s the gateway to the verdant northeast but have you wondered what lies beyond the mighty River Brahmaputra that flows through Assam? There’s a whole new world waiting to be discovered and it’s dotted with offbeat places that have hitherto been low in priority in travel itineraries. But now, discerning tourists, looking for that ‘something different’, are hot-footing it to them.

Here’s what you can expect: countless natural hot springs, mountains to trek, islands and even stone monoliths dating to the 17th century. To top it all, you might even catch a music festival if you travel at the right time.

Rakesh Mathur, president, WelcomHeritage, which has five heritage properties in the region, says: “The northeast is a great voyage of discovery. It’s almost virgin territory as it remains to be discovered by the majority of Indian travellers.”

Subhash Goyal, founder chairman, STIC Travel Group of Companies, feels that people are suddenly turning their attention to the region. Says Goyal: “The northeast is perhaps Indian tourism’s best-kept secret. But all that will change with improved connectivity.”

A word of caution however: Be prepared to stay in modest but comfortable accommodation that’s high on the local experience. Also, getting to some destinations can be an adventure by itself.

So, get around to explore the exotic places tucked away in the interiors of the region.

GURUDONGMAR (SIKKIM)

Would you like to follow the path that was once taken by Guru Padmasambhava, a revered figure in Tibetan Buddhist history? And would you like to drink the ‘holy water or miracle water’ from a lake that’s supposed to have the power of granting children? That’s one of the
legends about Gurudongmar Lake, in north Sikkim.

Gurudongmar is a hotspot for devotees who come all the way to pray at the guru’s temple that’s beside the lake.

“Religious and spiritual sentiments are drawing a large number of travellers
to Gurudongmar,” says Anirudh Kajaria, director of Brother Tours, a prominent travel agency offering specialised tours of Sikkim.

You get to Gurudongmar via Gangtok, the state capital, where you have the option of staying for a night or two. From here, drive to Lachen, which is 108km or five to six hours away. Make this your base, and stay at any of its 3-star hotels. Plan a day trip to Gurudongmar, which is a two-hour drive, through high pastures dotted with thick rhododendron bushes. Another attraction is the proximity to the Tibetan border, which is just a few kilometres from the lake.

Another place to visit from Lachen is Larching, a two-hour drive. A must-visit in Larching is the Yumthang Valley and its famous sulphur-rich hot springs. People take a dip here in the belief that it will cleanse their sins and ailments.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: March to June and October to December.

MECHUKA (ARUNACHAL PRADESH)

It combines history and tradition yet redefines serenity. Arunachal by itself is an interesting state, what with sharing international borders with Burma, Bhutan and China. And the small town of Mechuka — perched high above the sea level at 1,829m — is one of the newer places on the state’s travel itinerary.

Located on the Indo-Tibet border in West Siang district, (one of the state’s 16 districts), getting to Mechuka is just what the adventurer in you needed. Oken Tayeng, of Aborcountry Travels & Expeditions, a leading local tour operator, promises an experience you won’t forget. Dibrugarh, 439km away from Guwahati, is the gateway to Mechuka. After an overnight stay in Guwahati, you’ll need to make the five-hour ferry journey to Oiram-ghat, a small border town between Assam and Arunachal.

From Oiramghat, you either hire a taxi or take a bus to Siang Valley in Pasighat where you rest for the night. The next day, you drive for four hours to Along, another small town, from where your last stop, Mechuka, is another six hours away. So, you’re looking at a total travel time of about two days from Dibrugarh.

Once in Mechuka, get set for high-altitude treks, fishing excursions and cultural safaris. You could also be checking out monasteries like the 400-year-old Galden Namgyal Lhatse Buddhist Monastery. Mechuka also boasts of a gurudwara that’s supposedly 350 years old. Homestays that are high on local flavour and a government circuit house are the places to rest your head. Make sure you have a few days to take in all that Mechuka offers.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: September to mid-March. The local New Year (Losar) is celebrated in the second week of March.

MAJULI ISLAND (ASSAM)

There’s much more to Assam than the famed Kaziranga Reserve. Lesser known places like the Majuli Island are now being put firmly on the tourist map. “Being the world’s largest inhabited riverine island, Majuli has lots to offer,” says Monalisa Goswami, director of Assam Tourism in Guwahati.

The island is connected to the world by a ferry service that operates twice daily. The best way to get to the island is to reach Jorhat (about 303km from Guwahati). From here, Majuli Island is just a 90-minute ferry ride. Go on a sightseeing excursion and visit any of its 22 Buddhist monasteries that date back to the 17th century. The island is also home to rare birds. Keep two to three days for the trip.

The picturesque setting and the colourful traditions of the local Mishing tribes make for a heady combination. The icing on the cake could be the experience of staying in one of the bamboo cottages run by the locals.

In February and March the festivities of the Ali-ai-lvigang, the spring festival of the Mishing tribe, take place.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: October to April.

NARTIANG (MEGHALAYA)

While Cherrapunjee has earned itself the famous ‘wettest place on earth’ tag and is fairly well-known, its lesser known places in Meghalaya like Nartiang that are now coming into the spotlight.

Nartiang is easy to access and just 60km from Shillong. It’s a small Jaintia village located 22km from Jowai, the district headquarters of the Jaintia Hills, one of the seven districts of Meghalaya. It used to be the summer capital of the Jaintia rulers (one of the major tribes of Meghalaya) who took to erecting stones to mark their rule.
Since there’s no accommodation in Nartiang, tourists usually plan day trips from Shillong. Once you arrive in Guwahati, drive up to Shillong (about two hours away), where you can be based for a couple of days. There are comfortable resorts and hotels and Shillong itself has many interesting touristy places that you can visit.

Nartiang is the perfect place for those keen on history and culture. It’s called The Garden of Monoliths by the locals because of the ancient stone monoliths dating from the 17th century that are found here in abundance. Declared as an important archaeological site by the Ancient Monument and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act 1958, most of Nartiang’s monoliths are nearly 30ft high.

Get a local guide in Nartiang to get more of the place. The buzzy weekly local bazaar is interesting to visit, with Jaintia women selling everything from cane baskets to pineapples and even the freshly cooked and piping hot tit tung — wild mushroom cooked with black sesame seeds and pork.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: April, May, September and November.

KOHIMA (NAGALAND)

The Nagas have always attracted scores of researchers. And today, tourists too want to get an insight into the life of the people of Nagaland and to revel in its unspoilt natural beauty. There are 11 fascinating districts in the state.

Kohima tops the list as it offers a wonderful mix of culture, soulful music, exotic food and adventure. Plan for at least three days to enjoy the destination.

Once you have checked into a hotel of your choice (Kohima offers lots of options), get set to discover the town. Visit a supermarket if you want to see freshly-plucked greens and herbs from the jungles that serve as delicacies for the Nagas. Or visit the World War II cemetery in the heart of town or even Asia’s second largest village, Bara Basti, which is right here in Kohima.

From Kohima, visit the Dzukou Valley 25km away or drive up to Mokokchung, a district about 150km away, that offers angling spots as the rivers Milak and Tula flow through it. Another place to add to your itinerary is Khonoma, a green village where hunting is banned — that’s a big deal for the meat-loving Nagas — and where trees are not cut down.

The homestays in Khonoma come with Naga hospitality where one can sample the best home-cooked local food. Go trekking to the nearby Japfu Peak, about 15km away.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: October to mid-may. For music buffs, the Hornbill Festival in December is a treat.

AIZAWL (MIZORAM)

Anthurium farms, musical gigs, deep, dark woods and wildlife sanctuaries; Aizawl — one of the eight districts of Mizoram — has it all. “Besides being a complete tourist product, Aizawl can also serve as the base to explore the neighbouring areas,” says Noel Pari, deputy director, Directorate of Tourism, Mizoram.

Aizawl, the state capital, is a small but very lively town. It’s well connected and there are daily direct flights from Calcutta and Guwahati to the Lengpui Airport, which is 32km away. The town offers a handful of privately-owned, small hotels that are comfortable, if not luxurious.

At Bara Bazaar, you’ll find enterprising Mizo women selling handmade souvenirs. You can also set off on picnics to places like Bung (16km) or Falklawn (18km), a Mizo village, which is a major tourist attraction. To learn about Mizo history and culture, just hop across to the museum.

One of the highlights of your stay might be the Anthurium Festival held at a place 20km from Aizawl in September. And nothing can be more exciting than visiting some of the wildlife sanctuaries in different parts of the state.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: October to March.

Source: www.telegraphindia.com | Saturday , May 21 , 2011