Northeast Odyssey
Northeast India is synonymous with pristine beauty and greenery - with most travellers heading this direction to soak in the goodness of such rare and untouched beauty. This upscale property in Seujpur- the greenest neighbourhood of Dibrugarh - intermingles creative aesthetics and retains its authentic Assamese appeal. Location, location, location - that alone makes this property worth your consideration. In terms of connectivity, it is the first upscale in-town place of stay as you come from the Airport towards Dibrugarh town; and it’s just 10-15 minutes away from Assam Medical College and Main Bazaar. The host, Nishiraj Baruah, is a well-travelled lifestyle journalist for whom this homestay is a labour of love - every item in the house being crafted out of a fertile imagination. Striking decor - individualistic and unseen in other parts of the region - adorn the spacious and airy rooms that have more glass than bricks to afford you an eyeful of the sprawling Jalan tea garden right in front of the house. You can enjoy the view from your bed itself as you wake up to song birds.
The host’s mother stays in the lower floors of the house, and is a fantastic cook who rustles up ethnic Assamese and herbal cuisine. Her North Indian cooking is equally good. Any visitor to the property is welcomed like a member of the family, and surely fed like one. The ground floor was built by the host’s father; so, it may not be far-fetched to say the homestay, that carries so much of the family’s soul, allows a pukka Assamese local experience. Like most Assamese, the host is friendly and loves to meet different people from around the world; someone who would like you to enjoy his personal brand of hospitality. But should you rather be alone and be one with nature, well, you shall get all the privacy. Mr Baruah will know just when to buzz off!
The first house along the tea garden with red tin roof, Homestay by the Tea Garden, is a brand-new property specially made for homestays. The ground floor, is reserved for the family’s private use, while all the three large bedrooms upstairs are for guests. Each room has its own colour scheme and are called The White Room, The Green Room and The Black and White room. A luxury designer home, every item has been chosen carefully to give it a very unique character. Every room opens up to the lush green tea garden with large balconies, log wood furniture and swings, and floor to ceiling glass windows for unhindered views. You can access the designer lounge/living area, the open stainless-steel kitchen, the dining area etc.
Two more very cozy and cool rooms on the loft are being made ready too. You can book the entire house: with extra beds and it can easily accommodate 15 people. Yes, there are work tables for your laptop and all rooms are airy and full of natural light.
This particular room has a black and white theme with large window panes, a private bathroom and a large balcony that looks out to tall betel nut trees. The low floor double bed is designed like a keyboard. One of the walls has a large yin and yang symbol for balance and harmony. A black and white Bob Marley adorns the bedspread. Very airy and full of natural light, you will rarely need to use the AC. Enjoy the fresh air as you slide the large windows and let the outdoor breeze flow into your bedroom. The private bathroom is also squeaky clean and big with creative décor ideas.
Green is surely the dominant colour scheme of this room. It has floor to ceiling glass doors to offer you unhindered view of the tea garden. The balcony, very spacious, is just ideal to sit alone or, in company with a glass of wine! There is a cool laptop table which you will actually have to discover. A secret door (which doesn't look like a door) works as the entrance to your room. The bathroom is a white and yellow colour story where an old oil drum becomes the wash basin and a cabinet. With a large yellow window, there is ample natural light coming in. There are magazines and good old toilet humour scattered all around. Enough storage and wardrobes, enough privacy, the green room is just the right place to relax after your day's work.
This particular room has an all-white theme with large window panes, a private bathroom and a large balcony that looks out to the sprawling tea garden. A large, luxurious circular double bed, ideal for couples in romance, occupies centre space. Very airy and full of natural light, you will rarely need to use the AC. Enjoy the fresh air as you slide the floor-to-ceiling glass doors and let the outdoor breeze into your bedroom. The private bathroom is white and quirky with an interesting basin counter: It's made of wood sourced from underneath the Brahmaputra sandbanks, buried since the 1950 great Assam Earthquake! There are more surprises in store in this room straight out of fairy-tales!
While in Assam, you got to have pork! Which can be cooked by the host family themselves. The host’s mother also dishes fabulous ethnic Assamese herbal curries (sour or sour) with leaves and roots and wild flowers picked up from within the property’s kitchen garden. Outside, there are cool motels along the highways for drinks and dinner – all 20 minutes away. Prices here are pretty cheap and you can buy booze by the bottle.
There are cycle rickshaws available 100 metres from the house. Autos and share autos are available from Gabhoru Pothar police station (5 minutes away) to take you anywhere in town. All kinds of minivans and luxury busses are also available from there to take you out of town. The Assam Medical College bus stand and Paltan Bazaar bus stand are also just a walk or a rickshaw ride away. One can also book a cab to pick you up from the doorsteps. Your host can pick or drop you in his car for a nominal fee. If you know how to ride, the host will loan you his 30-year-old Bajaj Scooter for a fee, giving you the freedom to go anywhere and explore the town and beyond on it.
INR 1500/-onward, per night, exclusive of taxes
Lane 6, Seujpur, First House Opposite Tea Garden
P.O Dibrugarh Dibrugarh India 786005
Dibrugarh is well connected to other major cities via air, train and bus.
The nearest airport is Mohanbari Airport (DIB)
The nearest railway station is Dibrugarh Town (DBRT), Dibrugarh (DBRG)
The warmth of Prabhakar instantly makes one feel at home. The owners Sheila and Mahesh Bora, who converted their ancestral family home into a homestay, have played hosts to many travellers from across the globe. What makes it so special at Prabhakar is the unwavering commitment of Sheila, a retired professor who dishes out delicious homely Assamese meals and Mahesh, a retired mining engineer who never tires of gardening. No wonder, the property is awashed in natural beauty. There are more than 250 varieties of orchids that Mahesh has lovingly nurtured. The compound is dotted with seasonal flowers. Whether you sit out in the balcony or in the garden, you will always have birds and birdsongs for company.
The four rooms in the property are well-furnished and tastefully decorated in bright colours. Perched on a hill above the busy town of Guwahati, Prabhakar is where you can look forward to wholesome meals and a good night's sleep.
It’s a family home lovingly transformed into a guesthouse retaining all the warmth of a home. A Jaguar perpetually parked in the front driveway only adds to the charm of the place. Guests who come from all over the world love it for the sheer ambience that’s coupled with hospitable and efficient service. Set in the heart of Shillong, the cottage is surrounded by plants, fruit trees, orchids and many blooming seasonal flowers all through the year.
Personalized service under the supervision of owner Sharlene who leaves nothing to chance is perhaps the defining character of the place. Minute little details are important to ensure comfort and aesthetic appeal. The handcrafted beds in all the five well-appointed rooms that come with crisp yet soft cotton linen are inviting. Whether it is the home cooked meals complete with wholesome breakfast, freshly-baked cookies with tea that’s served either in the garden or the spacious balcony if not in the dining room only heightens the experience. The in-house library, wireless Internet on demand and a wellness studio ensure guests have plenty of options.
Conveniently located in the prime area of town, guests can ramble around the local market and go shopping. Those looking to explore the hidden sights of Shillong and beyond can rely on Sharlene who specializes in customizing programmes and activities to the unknown spots of Meghalaya.
Located in the heart of West Sikkim, in Darap, Daragaon Retreat is a home away from home. Allowing visitors to appreciate the local culture, this charming home retreat is just a 10 minute drive away from Pelling on the Yuksam-Khechepari road, and is run by Shiva and his wife Radha. The retreat is ideally suited for couples and families who want to enjoy a cozy environment along with some mouth-watering local delicacies. Visitors here can choose from two deluxe rooms, two cozy cottage rooms and tented facilities that ensure that ensure that one is taken away from the hustle and bustle of city life. Early risers can enjoy a brisk walk up to the limbo village (about 800 metres uphill) to see the Kanchendzonga – the world’s third highest peak – at sunrise.
For sightseeing, Pelling is only 5 kilometres away from Darap, from where most visitors start their tour of Sikkim. It is easy to get shared jeeps from Darap to Pelling (Rs 20) though the walk is beautiful. Most places of interest are within walking distance from Pelling, and it will takes about 6-7 hours to cover all of them. Furthermore for those interested, the hosts organize a trip to the local village to give visitors an insight into the local culture and a chance to interact with the locals. For further trips and treks and throughout the state through the Northeast, Shiv is a mine of information. Often sitting with guests at dinner, his stories about Sikkim are an ideal way to pass the evenings.
The place is comfortable but do bear in mind that it is a home retreat and those expecting hotel style amenities such as room service, mini-bar should look elsewhere. Indeed for dinner, it is Radha who does the cooking herself and hence it is courtesy to tell her the hours at which you will dine beforehand, and also to eat dinner as early as possible. Also, bear in mind that this retreat, considered one of the best in Sikkim is in a mountainous region and located atop a steep path, for which elderly guests in particular may take getting used to. However, bearing in mind that this is the Himalayas, it is unlikely that you will receive this authentic experience of the mountains anywhere else.
Darap is easily accessible by road by any part of Sikkim. It is a four to five hour drive from the nearest stations like Siliguri, Gangtok, Bagdogra, Kalimpong. You can take a jeep or reserve a taxi from Siliguri. If asked, the hosts can provide a pick up and drop to the airport or to the nearest railway station.
Tripura or Twipra, the land of Maharajas, pretty palaces, lakes and temples is reminiscent of the grandeur of Rajasthan. Situated between Bangladesh and Mizoram, this small state is a land of exquisite natural beauty. Tripura is known for its hills, dales and lush valleys. A distinct aspect of the hill formations of Tripura is that they run parallel in a north-south pattern beyond the borders of Bangladesh. Its highest peak is the Betling Shiv (3200 ft) in the Jampui ranges. A rich tourist spot, the Jampui hills are also famous for its orange plantations; and every year it hosts the famous orange festival during December-January. The Eden tourist lodge and several other paying guest accommodations are available in the area. The Boromura hill ranges, which is the source of rivers like Saidra and Sumili that flow into Bangladesh is also known for its natural splendour.
Tripura has had a fabled past; and before joining India in 1949, this land was ruled for centuries by the Hindu royal dynasty of Manikyas. Though considered a part of British India in the days of the Raj – it still enjoyed the status of an independent administrative unit even then. When India became independent, the then Maharani of Tripura, signed an agreement of merger with the union. Tripura and finally gained complete statehood in 1972.
Just as its variegated culture and multi-hued ethnicity, the origin of the name Tripura has several fascinating legends associated with it. While the name finds mention in the Mahabharata; Hindu mythology attributes the name of Tripura to lord Shiva, who is also called Tripurari. The more common belief is that name directly refers to the presiding deity of the land, ‘Tripura shundari’- which has made the region one of the 51 Shakti peethas, or pilgrimage centres sacred to worshippers of Goddess Durga.
Historical and scholarly records suggest that the name directly refers to the land once known as ‘Tuipra’ – meaning a land adjoining the water. It is a known fact that in the past, the boundaries of the land of Tripura extended up to the Bay of Bengal. While ancient history points to the fact that the Tripuri tribe, also known as Tipras, literally meaning ‘water-god’ - had travelled from Central Asia around 8000 BC and settled in this region.
Though among the earliest settlers of the land were several other Mongoloid communities like the Noatias, Chakmas, Reangs, Jamatis and Halams – the old Tripuris were the predominant tribe. Later with the wave of Bengali immigrants coming in from Bangladesh, the region, and especially the old Tripuris witnessed a radical change in their social and cultural fabric. This resulted in the birth of the Natun Tripuris (literally ‘new Tripuris’), who adopted many Bengali customs, including the Bengali language. It is no surprise therefore, that Bengali is currently one of the major languages of the state apart from Kokborak.
Other known immigrants like the Mundas, Orangs and Santals have contributed to Tripura’s diverse cultural base as well – these people were brought into the state during the time of the monarchy, to work at tea plantations or the brick kiln factories. Each of these tribes has their distinct dances, songs and customs, which have been kept alive to this day.
Various customs and religious festivals enliven Tripura’s colourful cultural heritage. Prominent among these festivals is Bisu – the New Year festival held during March/April. On Bisu, young and old alike participate in religious ceremonies; and young girls and boys perform the Kherbai dance. Being a predominantly Hindu state, people worship several Hindu gods and goddesses during its biggest festivals. Garia (Lord Shiva); Mailu-Ma (lakshmi); Khulu-ma (goddess of cotton plant); the 14 Chaturdasha deities (mainly worshipped by the Manikya royals) and Tripura-Sundari, whose temple stands at the ancient city of Udaipur, 55 kms from Agartala. A unique custom of offering traditionally made alcohol during ceremonies is common in the state. The most popular and prized variety - the Mami ni Chuwak, beer fermented from rice, is offered to Lord Garia and to respected guests on special ceremonies.
Being an agriculturally oriented society, its harvest festivals like Mamita are also very colourful occasions. Held during October, farmers celebrate a good harvest season with the Mamita dance. On this day, traditionally the royal family sacrificed buffaloes to organise a grand feast.
Tripura’s unique wildlife can be best savoured at Siphajhola sanctuary – woodland with an artificial lake, here tourists can view over 150 species of birds and the bespectacled monkey, Phayre’s Langur, known locally as ‘Chosma Mwkhwra’. Other notable locations for wildlife include Shilghati, on the banks of river Gomati, 16 kms from Udaipur. Shilghati is known for its unique flora and fauna. A large variety of fish is found here. Also, the state’s valuable elephant herds can be seen in Kalajhari hills ranges.
Like Rajasthan, royal Tripura is best preserved in several places in the state. Kamalasagar, an artificial lake built by King Dhanya Manikya of Tripura in the 15th century - today it is a popular spot for picnickers as well. Neermahal or Water Palace, 53 kms from Agartala, instantly reminds one of Lake Pichola palace in Udaipur. Built by King Bir Bikram Kishore Debburman in 1930, this beautiful edifice, elegantly combines Hindu and Muslim architectural styles all standing firmly at the centre of lake Rudrasagar.
Tripuras handicrafts and handlooms occupy a distinct place in India’s heritage. Cane and bamboo artefacts and the light cotton weaves are well-known. Interestingly the rignai, the cloth used by women to wear as a wrap – has close to 300 design patterns, all crafted during the reign of Maharaj Trilochana.
Apart from the many private hotels in the capital city of Agartala, there are several good accommodations available at all tourist destinations of Tripura.
Sikkim is home to almost 200 monasteries or Gompas belonging to the Nyingma and Kagyu sect. Some monasteries like the Dubdi monastery in west Sikkim is considered the oldest monastery having been built in 1705. It is also home to some exotic orchids. It is said Sikkim has more than 6000 species of orchids.
A former royal kingdom, Sikkim has had a turbulent past owing to incessant raids and annexation threats from nearby kingdoms. Sikkim’s Coronation Book describes Guru Tashi (descendants of the Mi-nyak House of Kham in Eastern Tibetas) as the first ruler of Sikkim. Yet, it was not before 1642 AD, when Sikkim got its first Chogyal (king) Phuntsog Namgyal (the fifth generation descendant of the Mi-nyak house), who consolidated the fragmented territories. This event was preordained by the Buddhist sage Rinpoche, who had come to the region to spread Buddhism.
Over the next centuries the kingdom was attacked several times by Nepali, Bhutanese and Chinese raiders – and twelve generations of Chogyals ruled the region for over 300 years. In 1890 Sikkim became a British protectorate, owing to constant threats from Nepal, and later came under Indian suzerainty after 1947. With growing unpopularity of the Chogyals, the kingdom witnessed a tumultuous period which finally resulted in the 1975 referendum of Sikkim to join the Indian union.
Sikkim has experienced very diverse cultural influences – and today the land is inhabited by a varied mix of Bhutias, Nepalese, Lepchas, Gurungs, Sherpas, Limbus and several other immigrant communities like Biharis, Bengalis and Marwaris. Though largely followers of Buddhism, a number of people have adopted Christianity and Islam too. In Sikkim we can see a prevalence of Buddhist festivals like Drupka and Bhumchu. Also celebrated with much fervour is the Tibetan New Year, called Losar and Nepali festivals like Tihar and Bhimsen pujas.
A unique concept, as part of the state’s plan to retain and promote its diverse ethnic heritage, is the village home-stays – which give tourists an opportunity to savour their way of life. Such home-stays provide accommodation in the traditional homes, and also offer traditional meals; village trips and a taste of the culture and customs of the community, all first hand.
Sikkim’s kaleidoscopic history and heritage is best preserved at the many monuments and religious sites. The legendary Rumtek Monastery built in 1730 by the ninth Karmapa, which was later destroyed by fire and had to be rebuilt - now houses some of the world's most unique religious scriptures, manuscripts and religious artefacts. Several gompas and the striking Buddhist rock-caves like Laringvigphu and Pephu are also part of Sikkim’s unique cultural tradition.
Unlike the other verdant north -eastern states, rocky mountainous slopes and placid lakes define Sikkim’s topography. There are close to 30 prominent mountain peaks in the state - this also includes the third highest summit of Kanchendzonga bordering Sikkim; and others such as Talung, Narsing and Gocha La. An ideal spot to savour the awe-inspiring Himalayan ranges, Sikkim has also emerged as an ideal destination for adventure sports like camping, trekking, mountain biking and river rafting. 8 well-known passes which includes the famous Nathula and Jelepla, are used as important trade and transport routes between India and the surrounding countries. Popular among tourists – panoramic views of the sublime mountains can be savoured from these passes.
Sikkim’s rugged topography is further accentuated by the mountain glaciers - the Zemu glacier, the largest and the most famous glacier of the eastern Himalayas, is situated in a large U-shaped valley at the base of the Khangchendzonga massif in the northwest.
Surrounded by the majestic mountains and canopied under the azure skies are Sikkim’s lakes – calm and serene, their breathtaking beauty is to be savoured with the naked eye. Prominent among these are the Tsomgo (or Changu) at the Nathula highway, Tso Lhamu and the Menmecho lakes. Their frozen waters become the playing fields for many migratory birds during the harsh winter months.
The Teesta river, better known as Sikkim’s lifeline, which originates in the Cholamo lake, in the Himalayas – runs all along the state carving out natural river valleys on its course. Also strewn across its pristine landscapes are exotic hot springs like Yumthang and Purchachu; and the many bubbling waterfalls.
Only one third of Sikkim is green in the strict sense. Terraced farm fields of millet, maize tea and barley; subtropical broadleaf plants like maple, birches, magnolia and oak; alpine forests and around 5000 flowering plants contribute to Sikkim’s striking foliage. The orchid Dendrobium nobile, is the official flower of the state. Among the ecological hotspots of India, Sikkim is also home to a great variety of rare and endangered species like the red panda, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear, marbled cat, the Tibetan wolf and the barking deer.
Though covered in thick sheets of snow in winter, it’s not unusual to find tourists here during Christmas and New Year. The best time to savour Sikkim is during spring and summer.
Tourism being the biggest contributor to its economy – the state has all the necessary amenities and comforts to cater to a huge inflow of tourists.
The bustling town of Gangtok has a host of star and budget hotels to cater to every kind of traveller. These include Chumbi Residency, the Himalayan Retreat and Resort, Cherry Guest House, Bliss resort, Royal Plaza and Kewzing Home.
The vibrant hills of Nagaland are home to some of the most distinct tribes of India. This small state bordering Myanmar to the east became part of the Indian Union as its 16th state in 1963, after a long-standing fight for independence. The capital of the state is the bustling town of Kohima.
Covering a total area of 6401 sq miles, Nagaland’s topography is defined by long stretches of rugged mountains, which arise from the Brahmaputra valley in Assam at a height of 2000 ft. Among its many peaks, the picturesque mount Saramati at an elevation of 12,552 feet is the highest – this is also the location where the Naga Hills merges with the Patkai Hills bordering Myanmar. Shrouded by dense clouds mostly, this region gets a very high amount of rainfall all year round.
Several waterfalls and rivers drain into the valleys surrounding the hills. Nagaland’s rivers Doyang and Diphu to the north, the Barak river in the southwest and the Chindwin river of Burma in the southeast, crisscrosses through the entire length of the state. These rain-fed rivers provide enough water for this agricultural land which produces crops like rice, corn, pulses, potatoes, sugarcane and oilseeds. Approximately 90 per cent of Nagaland’s populace is involved in agriculture.
By far the most striking feature of Nagaland is its tribes. Primarily belonging to the Indo-Mongoloid stock of people, each community is distinct from the other in terms of customs, culture and language. There are 16 major tribes who inhabit these regions – like Angami, Ao, Sema, Rengma, Sangtam, Chakasang, Konyak, Lotha and Moatsu among others. Fiercely loyal towards the clan and traditions, the Nagas originally had political and socio-economic links to tribes of Burma. They represent an egalitarian society where there is no system of caste or class. Young girls and boys have wide freedom of interaction before marriage, the only restriction being a strict ban on marrying within one’s gotra or totem.
Customs related to agriculture and war are interwoven into the Naga cultural fabric – through most of their song and dance sequences Nagas try to propitiate the natural forces for a good harvest or for safeguard against any disaster or natural calamities. The festival season for each tribe is a time for joyous celebrations. And the Nagas loosen their purse strings during festival and ensure they have grand feasts. Hospitable by nature, Nagas take it upon themselves to entertain guests and visitors to their home to make sure at least they share a meal.
The Angami festival of SekrenyI in the month of February is an occasion to pray for the health and welfare of the whole community.
The Ao tribe observe Moastsu Mong for three days in the month of May after completing sowing. 'Sangpangtu' is one of the symbolic celebrations of this festival – on this occasion men and women sit around a bonfire.
Another festival of Aos is the Tsungrem Mong celebrated in the month August. During this festival village youths showcase their intellectual and physical prowess through various games and activities.
Festival of Chakhesang: This community celebrates seven festivals through the entire year – these are Suhkruhnye, the most important festival of this clan is held in January; NGUNYE – in February; Tsakronye – March; Tsukhanye – May; Khuthonye - July; Turhinye – August; Thurinye / Khiluvatu - December.
Changs observe six major festivals annually namely Poang Lem, Jeinyu Lem, Kudang Lem (by Haongang community), Moung Lem, Naknyu Lem and Monyu Lem.
Sankarni is the most important festival of Zemis, held sometime in February. During this week long festival alcohol is widely consumed by the tribe.
The Sumis celebrate a post harvest festival called AHUNA; and the TULUNI, another festival that is celebrated in mid July. On this occasion people drink the Tulini, a rice beer.
Traditional crafts of Nagaland is any shopper’s delight. Passed down by several generations the tribal handloom, pottery, bamboo and cane artefacts, weaving and dyeing and woodcarving are considered formidable art forms of India.
A culturally vibrant society, Mizoram is home to the famous bamboo dance. The Mizos are a talented lot who take to music naturally. They are strikingly westernised and with the highest literacy rate in the state in India averaging almost 95 per cent, English is widely spoken making it easy for tourists and outsiders.
Mizos have firm religious beliefs and are fun-loving. Peep into their festive calendar that wears a colourful hue throughout the year. All activities related to jhum farming culminate in several agricultural festivals like Mim Kut; Chapchar Kut, and Pawl Kut, held between September and March.
Like its traditional music, the different dances of the region have their unique flavour too – there are performances, which commemorate a successful harvest, like the popular Chailam, which is performed during Chapchar Kut; or traditional dances like Sarlamkai and Khuallam, that are associated with war and glory. Accompaniments like bamboo, drums, cymbals, gongs as well as clapping of hands, produce their distinctive beats and rhythms to which dancers match their movements.
Mizoram is the 23rd state of the Indian Union and the state gained complete statehood in February 1987. This beautiful mountainous region, sharing an international border with Myanmar and Bangladesh covers an area of 21,087 sq kms.
Mizoram is a beautiful mountainous region where the topography is defined by rugged hills and plunging gorges with gushing rivers flowing down them. Blessed with ample rainfall, Mizoram’s luxuriant landscapes are characteristic of tropical forests enriched with a variety of flora and fauna, including vast stretches of bamboo forests
Mizoram’s topography is defined by rugged hills and plunging gorges with gushing rivers flowing down them. Blessed with ample rainfall, Mizoram’s luxuriant landscapes are characteristic of tropical forests enriched with a variety of flora and fauna, including vast stretches of bamboo forests
There are over 21 major hills in Mizoram, among which the 'Phawngpui (Blue Mountain) towering at 2,065 metres, is the highest. An interesting facet about Mizoram’s major rivers is that they either flow in a north or south direction. Tlawng (also known as Dhaleswari or Katakhal), Tut (Gutur), Tuivawl and Tuirial (Sonai) flow through the northern territory and eventually join river Barak in Cachar. The Western part is drained by river Karnaphuli (Khawthlang tuipui); while southern Mizoram is fed by river Koldoyne (Chhimtuipui), which originates in Myanmar.
Several lakes are strewn across the state as well – these include Palak, Tamdil, Rungdil; and Rengdil, which are all prime tourist destinations of the state. The birth of lake Palak is steeped in local myths – it is believed that it was created as a result of an earthquake or a flood; and a village, which was submerged during the floods, still remains under the waters to this day. Covering an area of 30 Ha, Palak is situated in Chhimtuipui District in southern Mizoram.
Tamdil, situated 110 kms from Aizawl, has a fascinating tale associated with its origin as well. Legend has it that the mustard plant which stood here centuries ago, was cut off, and this resulted in water spraying out from beneath forming a lake – thus the name Tamdil, which means ‘lake of mustard plant’.
Like many other north-eastern people, Mizos (Mi and Zo translated literally mean hill people), are generally accepted as being of Mongoloid decent. Ethnically, Mizos are collectively known as Lushais or Luseis, literally meaning ‘long headed people’.
Around the 7th century their sojourn took them to western Burma – here they came under the influence of Christian missionaries who infused several changes in their social fabric, including introduction of formal education and the Roman script for the Mizo language. It is no surprise therefore that literacy rates in the state are highest in India, averaging 95% almost. As an influence of the church and western lifestyles, English is a widely spoken language throughout the state.
Considered as extremely polite and friendly people, the Mizo society is closely knit. The entire village is considered like a big family that partakes in all kinds of ceremonies together. Though the influence of Christian missionaries has made them more liberal and democratic in their mindsets, Mizos still value the traditional ideology of ‘Tlawmngaihna’, where every member of their society is supposed to selflessly serve others.
Traditionally involved in farming, especially jhum cultivation– young Mizo men were trained at the village Zawlbuk, to eventually become responsible citizens. Today’s young generation is however involved in newer professions including music. Lately the state has seen a profusion of rock bands and is also popular for the genre of gospel music.
The state is also home to various tribes like Maras, Hmar, Paites and Lais. Other groups like the Riang, a sub-tribe of Tripuri and Chakma origin also inhabit here.
The land of cascading waterfalls, intriguing caves, rolling plans and incessant rains – Meghalaya, literally meaning the ‘abode of clouds’, is home to the legendary Garo, Khasi and Jaintia tribes. Formerly a part of Assam, it gained statehood as part of the Indian Union in 1972. Spread over an area of 22, 429 square kilometres, the state is bounded by Assam to the north and Bangladesh to the west.
A much loved destination for writers and music lovers alike, the capital city, Shillong, is where Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore chose for his many sojourns, while author Nirad C Choudhuri mentioned extensively in his book The Autobiography of an Unknown Indian’. In fact, today, Shillong is the music capital of Northeast with many home-grown singers and rock bands making it a lively state. It has hosted some of the major rock concerts held in the recent past by international groups and artistes like MLTR, Scorpions, Air Supply, Eric Martin and Petra. It is also home to one of the most natural and largest courses in Asia, the Gleneagles of the East.
Some of the earliest group of ethnic settlers in the Indian subcontinent – the Garo, Khasi and Jaintias settled in eastern Meghalaya centuries ago. Together these communities make up, what is known as the Hynniewtrep people - belonging to the Proto Austroloid Monkhmer race. Known as cheerful and hospitable people - the common distinguishing factor among these groups is their tradition of matrilineal system of society, where the family lineage is attributed to the mother’s side. It is worth noting that around 73% of people of the state have shown an inclination to beget a girl child – much higher than the national average; and in a nation where having a male heir is still considered a boon.
God fearing and simple, a host of distinct customs define their social and religious characters. Khasis believe in the existence of one supreme God, their creator 'U Blei Nongthaw'; while Garos call their supreme entity Raguba. Belief in good and ominous spirits is very common among these tribes, and forms part of certain religious customs -like appeasing these spirits for better harvest or a good rainfall. Though largely followers of such animistic forms of religion – a number of these communities have now adopted Hinduism Islam or Christianity as well.
The festival calendar of Meghalaya is primarily dominated by the colourful celebrations of these communities.
Among the Khasis, the annual Nongkrem Dance held at Smit (every autumn) associated with goat sacrifice, is held with much pomp and gaiety. The ritual involves a traditional dance performed is by the Syiem, the head of the Khasi state, and Ka Syiem Sad, the Syiem priestess (considered caretakers of all religious ceremonies); and the ministers and the common people.
The Garo Hills come alive to the beat of the nagara (drums) every November when the community partakes in a post-harvest festival called Wangala. On the occasion Garos thank their god of fertility, Misi-A-Gilpa-Saljong-Galapa. The highlight of the festival is a performance by 300 dancers and 100 drumbeaters who descend on the field in their fineries.
A three-day long festival of the Jaintias, known as Behdeinkhlam is held to drive away evil spirits with waving of sticks and the beating of drums. Also, the Pnar people hold the annual Chad Sukra, meaning sowing festival, between April and May every year.
Various other festivals like the autumn festival, the strawberry and Ranikor festivals draw large crowds from various parts of the state, as well many international tourists. Other groups like the Rabha, Mikir, Koch and Nepalis have their unique cultural events as well.
The entire Meghalaya plateau region is made of rich rock formations, which are a great storehouse of natural minerals like coal, limestone, uranium. The Garo, Khasi and Jaintia hills are a part of this region itself. Several rivers, deep gorges and forests define this hill region. The central part of the plateau comprising the Khasi Hills has the highest elevations – Shillong Peak is its highest point; while the highest point in the Garo hills is the Nokrek Peak at an altitude of 1515 m. The town of Cherapunji, a famous tourist destination, in the Khasi Hills, holds the world record for the highest rainfall in a month.
Rain awashed Meghalaya is a nature’s paradise – approximately 42. 34% of the total area of the state is forested. These sub-tropical forests have some of the richest faunal diversity and botanical habitats in Asia; and offer rich opportunities for eco-tourism as well.
It’s ancient forests or ‘sacred groves’ have been preserved for centuries by its indigenous people – an ideal destination for nature worshippers, these areas harbour some of the rarest species of plants and flowers. Generally rimmed by a dense growth of Castanopsis kurzii trees, the areas inside is loaded with varieties of aroids, pipers, ferns, fern-allies and orchids. The Mawphlang sacred forest in the east Khasi hills is a prominent sacred grove here.
Meghalaya has been gifted with stunning natural wonders. Where else would you find caves with such depth and length, as we do here? Owing to the climate, we have the best wines which are not known to outsiders.
The cleanest village in Asia, Mawlynnong, about 100 kms from Shillong, is our pride. I would urge every visitor to go and not just see, but to also come back with the inspiration to keep their own respective backyards clean.
Shillong is a hawker’s paradise. All through the streets- be it in Laban, Police Bazar and Laitumkhrah, locals sell fresh produce like fruits and exotic vegetables.
It’s such a delight to see how much of what grows in our soil is being exhibited. Try and reach there in the morning, to witness the buzz and spirit of the place.
When it comes to restaurants, one can find quite a few good ones in Shillong that are definitely outstanding. There’s a notable focus on organic produce and the countryside – a possible testament to the local’s love for good quality food. I would recommend local food and Shillong-style Chinese cuisine.
Plan your trip to coincide with the annual celebration of Bob Dylan's birth anniversary. Come and be a part of the musical fiesta on 24th May every year – we have live gigs, and the mood is more than just musical. The experience is epic since I first started in 1972!
Lou Majaw
